Drum Tower

We went to the Drum Tower and climbed some more steep stairs. At the top, we saw an awesome show on huge old drums. (yes, that is the technical name for them)

Unfortunately, Bethie couldn’t perform her solo here.

There was also a shop. To me, it was a bunch of vendors selling the same touristy stuff as everywhere else, but Beth seemed to have a really good time shopping for her friends and browsing the artwork. An example of how long I’ve been here, I suppose.

The vendors were giving her the “I make cheaper for you” spiel and then knocking 10 RMB off the inflated foreigner price. Bethie feels really uncomfortable bargaining, and I sort of understand. I used to feel weird about it too, but now that I’m getting paid in a Chinese salary, I feel differently. Also I take a bin lao wai price as a personal insult.

Then we walked through one of the hutongs. We found a street vendor selling naan pancakes and lamb and fried vegetables, and we bought some and sat on some steps to eat. I’d been trying to show Bethie some of the great restaurants I know in Beijing, but she was actually really happy eating street food in the hutong.

Me trying to assimilate and succeeding as well as I usually do in China.

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Honesty Is Never The Best Policy

My sister and I were talking about the shades of gray in Chinese honesty. In just the last few weeks, she’s already been witness to quite a lot of what we in America might describe with the local idiom “lying through one’s teeth.”

It’s pretty common to be told that what you want is out of stock when it clearly isn’t. Quite often mei you means “your bad Chinese is making too much work for me”. But I no longer accept that all tickets are sold or all tables are booked without calling back three or four times and getting a second opinion. (That’s a habit that I should probably break when I get home — harrassing the Chili’s hostess isn’t such a good plan)

It’s not all foreigner mei you, though. For every no-soup-for-you, there’s someone else lying to tell you want you want to hear. Or what he or she thinks you want to hear. I have never been told that a train, bus or airplane would be late, in fact, employees will promise promptness in the face of storms, technical failures or other delays. If Mussolini made the trains run on time, then Mao made sure everyone at least tells you the train’s on time.

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I can’t watch this!

When Stick and I were in Qingdao, we stopped at a tiny DVD store, mostly so he could read the Chinglish. After a few months in Yantai, I’m usually so excited to see an English sentence, that I can over look some of the errors that leave Stick gasping for air.

These DVDs are totally NOT pirated or illegal or anything because they’re being sold in an actual shop, not on the street, and that is exactly what I’m going to tell the customs inspector when I’m trying to get them back into the states. (Do you think I should cry when I say it, or look entitled-American defiant? And if they do confiscate my movies at the border, do you think I can at least keep my Chinese Starship Troopers for Jay?) Somehow these fine, legal copies have blurbs and flavortext unedited from fan sites and blogs. These blurbs may not be flattering, they may not be about the movie in question, in fact they might not even be about movies at all but they’re English. Almost.

“What does that even say?” Stick asks, about a blurb on the back of one movie. “Look, the Sopranos! Box set!” (Would someone who’s seen an American copy tell me if it should be the Sopranos or The Sopranos?)

“That’s the violent HBO show, yeah? The mobsters?” I ask. Did I mention that I no longer make proper questions? After getting a (loose) grasp on hao bu hao and you mei you, I’ve decided that ma is my favorite Chinese grammatical construction. You can make any statement into question with ma, or in English yeah? on the end.

I ask the proprietor for the price, and we decide that about $25 is a reasonable price for seasons 1-4. Stick leaves happily, sure that I’m going to love this show. I’m less enthused because I hate violent films. (I never really watched TV when I was a kid, and I think that’s directly responsible for why I can’t stand to watch movie gore or violence. I made Stick turn off Silence of the Lambs after seven minutes and I had to close my eyes for parts of Rome. Give me I, Claudius any day!) But six months in China has made me appreciate how nice it would be to have a simple night in front of the TV with my boyfriend so I agreed.

A few nights later, we were back in Yantai, sitting on the couch with pineapple beers in hand.

“I can’t watch this, boy,” I said, halfway into the series premiere.

“It’s not even violent yet!” he protested.

“I know… it’s just the food. Pizza. Pasta. Cheese. Salads. Mmmm. Why do they have to eat so much on this show? I don’t know if I can watch!”

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See You In Rome

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Beijing Photos

High romance while defending China from the Mongol hordes.

I have some more Beijing photos and I have a lot more to say but I want to see my sister and my boy as much as I can.

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Meg and Beth on the Great Wall

This is my sister Bethie and me on the Great Wall of China.

At the Great Wall, Stick and I did a impromptu skit. I talked a vendor halfway down and then said “I really want it, but my husband won’t give me more than 40 kwai!,” and Stick caught right on with “I won’t give you more than 30! Stop spending all my cash!” We bickered loudly about his stinginess and my shopping addiction while Bethie whispered something like “Meg, I can lend you money…” When the vendor came down to the price I wanted, Bethie whispered “I think she’s mad at you, she just said ‘Ok lah!'”

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Hot and Heavy

My air conditioner died. I know, I know, you were expecting this post to be all about Stick and how great he is and stick-figure romance and our trip to Beijing to pick up my sister and our visit the Great Wall and our Peking duck night and other assorted adventures.

But my A/C died. I was sleeping on the couch while Stick was doing some laundry, do we have high romance or what? Stick woke me to tell me that my AC was making a strange burning smell.

So, I told the woman at my school who deals with our housing, and she promised to call the landlord and get someone in there as soon as possible. Which actually was as soon as possible because I got a phonecall the next morning saying that the landlord would be over in 20 minutes to fix it. And by “the landlord” I was supposed to infer “a translator from my school, Helen’s mom, a repairman and the landlord”. So with Stick, my little Bethie and me, that makes seven people in the very hot apartment.

The first round of questions were tech-support moron locaters, did you turn it on? is it plugged it? did you unplug it? Then we turned on the AC and waited until the burning smell started again. There were a few moments when the landlord insisted she couldn’t smell anything and then the outlet started smoking and the repairman turned off the power and started to take things apart.

While we were waiting, my landlord walked around the apartment looking at things. She wanted to know what happened to the waterfall picture in my living room. I tried to explain that when I was dusting for Stick’s visit, the picture (and quite a lot of the plaster on the wall) fell down. She demanded to see where the picture was, so I showed her that I hadn’t hocked it.

Then my landlord looked in my sister’s room. Someone Beth’s room looks like her suitcase exploded all over the room, only this suitcase has a cold and so there are tissues all over the place too. She didn’t say anything, but the look on her face transcended language. It was the look our mom gets sometimes. It’s nice to see that some things are universal.

Instead of a kitchen table, I have a card table. It’s not actually the folding kind but it looks like a table someone picked up at Target and then passed around four or five starter apartments before it ended up in my hallway/kitchen. When I moved in there was an explicable comforter draped across it, but I decided that my table didn’t really need a quilt in the summer.

My landlord was quite upset that I was letting the card table get scratched. I mean, what if I decided to eat dinner in the hallway? And I put a bowl on the table? And it left a mark? Do you see the disaster that could ensue?

Stick wants you all to see my kitchen. The item in the back is not actually a keg but a gas tank for a burner. (No, I don’t mean stove, I meant burner) You may also notice that there’s no dinner table nor any space for one, and there’s why I’ve been refering to my hall/kitchen. Stick thinks this will give you some perspective on my discussion with my landlord. Posting the kitchen picture seems like a good idea but Stick is also the person who read my guidebook’s section on Chinese diseases and then said “Good thing I didn’t read this at home — I would never have come!”

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BaDaLing BaDaBing

Meg considering other career options.

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En Route To Beijing

It is amazing to have Stick here. The trip from Yantai to Beijing was awesome because at each airport checkpoint, and sometimes in between, Stick asked me if I still had our passports. Did you catch that? Our passports. Yeah. It was great.

It was almost as great as when he asked if I wanted a coffee. Or a cold water? The other half of the China Daily? Do I need a blanket? Should he turn the AC up or down?

I forgot how much I love being a girlfriend.

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While Walking In China…

Meg: Stick, if we lived in China and you had a motorscooter instead of a car would you let my hang onto the back?

Stick: Sure, baby. I’d even buy you a helmet!

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