Ma La Tong

Went out last night for a leaving party, one of our students is going to university and one of the teachers is finishing his contract and leaving for a new job. I’d forgotten how much of expat life is leaving parties for people moving away. I was slightly disappointed, because the teacher who’s moving on seems like a great guy, I feel like we just got past how-was-your-class office chitchat, and started getting to know each other, and I enjoyed his company.  And our student, Sean, is a sweet kid who’s not shy about his love for James Franco and geography. Sometimes conversational classes turn into groupthink, so having Sean in a class is always a delight.

Anyway, I was glad my coworkers didn’t hold my drinking game analysis against me. Coworker James, who’s come to China to work on his novel, said he knows a good Florida drinking game called Shots in The Kitchen. To play, go in the kitchen and do a shot. I did not overanalyze that one.

Ma la tong is a make-your-own hot soup. Each person grabsingredients from a fridge, most of them are on skewers that might be mistaken for barbecue, and then it’s cooked into individual soups bowls. Prices are between 5 jiao and 1.5 kwai (that’s 8-23 cents, for everyone playing along at home) per stick. I didn’t choose any of the raw meats, but let’s be realistic about these baskets and the cross contamination going on. Actually, let’s not think too much about that. Everything’s getting boiled, it’ll be fine. (James: That C from the health inspection? It just stands for Cool With Me!)

I’d tried ma la tong with coworker Rob a couple weeks ago, but our student, Sean, says the place we went to last night is the best ma la tong in Yangzhou. I did enjoy last night’s more, but I also knew a bit more about what I was putting in my soup this time. That’s basically the summary of this trip to China. Is something in Yangzhou 2015 objectively nicer? Or do I just know myself better, have more Chinese vocab, more reasonable expectations, and I’m actually making it better? Life pondering for another night. For now there’s beer in paper cups.

We walked from the soup place to have drinks, a small crowd of laowei men attracting a certain amount of stares on the way, and wound up drinking wine at a cafe. Walking across town, I had a good moment. This is where I am supposed to be, this is what I am supposed to be doing. It was the wonderful familiarity when another old China hand joked about sitting on stools in the street, throwing back warm beer, and the wonderful strangeness of a long-term expat’s story of scorpion bites in foreign countries. Living in Chapel Hill, I spent a certain amount of time pretending an interest in things other people talked about, and it was really nice not to pretend.

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A Retrospective of My Chinese Bathrooms

Remember my Yantai bathroom with no hot water? Remember my Beijing bathroom with the electrical outlet in the shower? Yeah, I haven’t exactly had the greatest luck with Chinese bathrooms.

Two nights ago, I had a little trouble sleeping and heard a small drip from the bathroom. In a city of fireworks and a hotel of carousing, a tiny drip wasn’t going to keep me awake, but I have some experience with Chinese plumbing, so I mentioned this little drip to my contact at my school and asked her to let the hotel know. She said had a lot of the other things to do but if I got her the number of the hotel, she would call. I felt sort of weird about this: I live in the housing provided by the school, and several other teachers and staff members live here too, so it seems really odd that the school has no way to contact them and no ability to look this number up…  I kind of get the feeling my problem wasn’t really a priority. But, whatever, I got the number, and  really hoped that my contact would call.

Last night, I heard the dripping again, but I rolled over and went back to sleep. Aaah sleep. I love you, sleep. This morning, though, I swung my feet out of bed, onto the carpet, and it squelched. My tiny leak had covered the bathroom floor, with an inch or two of water (the floor isn’t really flat in there), and some of it had even spilled out over the doorsill into my room, soaking the carpet. This is no time for politely using the correct channels and maybe getting help from my school, this is time for taking matters into my own (toneless-Mandarin) hands.

I went to the cleaning staff on my floor, and explained my problem in my broken Mandarin (Jin tian wo xing. Wo can shui. Da shui. Qing ni can shui! Today I wake. I see water. Big water. Please you look water.)  I usually like to practice a new conversation a bit and look up vocab words, but see previous re: flood. The housekeepers came in to look, I’m still unsure whether I actually communicated well or they just wanted to know what the foreign lady was so agitated about (By the way, in this story, I was wearing my yoga pants and yesterday’s t-shirt because I just woke up to a flood), and then they got the maintenance guy.

Of course, the maintenance staff doesn’t speak much Mandarin, they speak Yangzhou local dialect. This is quite different from Mandarin, and even when Yangzhouhua speakers switch to Mandarin, their vocab and their falling-rising tone sounds really different to me. Several hundred years ago, the Yangzhou locals consciously stopped speaking Mandarin and switched to speaking their own language when they felt they weren’t getting enough support from the central government, who’d been pretty quick to claim Yangzhou when it was a prosperous shipping port and pretty quick to drop Yangzhou when the economy shifted and it was less significant. Which is really fascinating, but not when I am trying to explain about a flood happening in my room.

So everyone came into my room to try to sort it out. and by the way, I have pictures of Harold all over my room, like I am 16 and he is a pop star, which is a totally mature and reasonable thing to do, and I am not at all embarrassed about it. I don’t have the Mandarin vocab to describe a plumbing issue, let alone Yangzhouhua, so I did a certain amount of pointing and je ge, and the maintenance guy had a look at where the water was coming from, and somehow figured it out, which I can only assume means he is the greatest plumber in all of China. He explained what he needed to do to fix it, not like I would have understood that in the Queen’s English, and ended with mei shi, no problem.

I wanted to tell him not to worry, my last Chinese plumbing adventure ended up in a coffeetable book, so I’m sure this will turn out OK too.

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“Call The Midwife” Memoir Trilogy Offers More Poplar Details For TV Fans

call the midwife trilogyI wrote some more about how great Call The Midwife is, specifically about the memoir this time.

The popular BBC show Call The Midwife tells the story of a young nurse, Jenny Lee, and her fellow midwives at Nonnatus House. If you’re not already in love with this program, check it out for a binge-watchable character-driven drama, including historical detail, snarky nuns, medical complications, and female friendships, plus loads of adorable babies.

In her memoirs, Worth is matter-of-fact in her descriptions, with a dry wit for commentary. (My favorite is a quiet suggestion that the lack of televisions in Poplar homes may have contributed to the large size of the families.) She is able to describe harsh conditions, from both medically complicated pregnancies to  life in poverty, in a way that’s readable and realistic, not romanticized. Worth keeps both her youthful optimism and her experienced reflection, making the entire book feel like a long visit with the show’s mature Jenny (voiced by Vanessa Redgraves).

Via “Call The Midwife” Memoir Trilogy Offers More Poplar Details For TV Fans | (The) Absolute

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And Another Reason Your Drinking Game Is Statistically Flawed

Went out for beers with my coworkers tonight. I like the guys I’m working with, and we went to a lovely bar by the river, where I ruined everyone’s enjoyment of bu shi (the Chinese drinking game where you guess the dice combinations hidden under the cups) by explaining the probabilities of each bid.

I am so great at socializing. You should totally hang out with me.

Related: I continue to be great at talking to coworkers. 

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Book Tour: The Zombie Truth

the zimbie truthIn The Zombie Truth, by Vincent St. Vincent, students in Florida start to notice that some kind of evil is spreading, whether it’s random violence on the news, or a strangely aggressive ex-boyfriend.

The Zombie Truth was a rare book where I cared much, much more about the plot than the characters.  Neither Robert or Tara really stood out to me. (They are the protagonists, really, and I had to doublecheck their names for this post) But by the time I realized that Dude and Girlfriend weren’t really my cup of tea, enough strange things had happened that I kept reading to find out what was going on with all these unusual sightings. All these pieces have to be connected, but how?

I don’t want to reveal too much of the story, because discovering how the strange events are connected is enjoyable, and I don’t want to give spoilers. I will say, though, that every time I thought to myself, huh, that’s odd. Wonder why that piece of information was included, that bit always became significant later.

Although the publisher warns that the novel could be “too jarring, disturbing, uncomfortable or perplexing”, I didn’t find the novel gross, and I usually have a low tolerance for blood. (I’ve tried to watch a couple scary movies with my horror-writer husband, and it doesn’t usually go well. It’s entirely possible that Harold is bingewatching all the haunted horror movies while I’m away.) Some of the first violence takes place over a hot Florida Christmas, a really telling image that sets the tone of the rest of the book.

I received a copy of The Zombie Truth to read and review. As always, all opinions on my blog are my own, and ARCs have never stopped me from snarking about a bad book.

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Yeah, But Just Wait ‘Til We Raise Our Legions

We got a new guy at work today and we were in the office chatting about what we did before coming to Yangzhou.  I’d forgotten this part about expat life, how it’s already time to say goodbye to one person and meet a new arrival.

“First, I got my degree in a truly terrible subject for finding a job,” my new coworker told me.

“Oh really? What was that?” I asked. As a classics major, I’m always so happy to hear about others who studied what they really liked, especially if that rambling career path leads to China.

“Classical studies.” he said.

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The Lost Concerto

After the suspicious drowning death of her husband and the unsolved murder of her best friend, Sofia, Maggie O’Shea doesn’t seem like the luckiest action heroine around. She kind of wants to stay home, drink too much wine, and play her piano, but investigations into both those untimely deaths start to turn up information on both her son’s father, who’s been presumed dead for 30 years, and her missing godson (Sofia’s son). Maybe she’s not just unlucky after all…

Throughout The Lost Concerto, our heroine Maggie suffered slightly from Indescribable Charm Syndrome, an illness that unfortunately affects many novel protagonists. Maggie constantly charms everyone in her path, receiving essential information out of reticent contacts, delighting curmudgeonly secret agents, and generally succeeding where the trained investigators have failed through her pleasing personality alone. Everyone Maggie is just instantly taken with her that the investigation began to feel a little repetitive.

But I’m kind of OK with that, because Indescribable Charm Syndrome is usually a trait of sexy ingenues, not grandmotherly musician Maggie O’Shea. An fiftyish pianist, who casually gives her agent-partner the slip when she feels like staying at a more charming Paris hotel? A woman who wears a cringe-worthy musical pun T-shirt at every exotic location of this fast-pased adventure? A woman who looks back on the meet-cute with her lifelong girl friend before setting off to rescue her friend’s son? This is a heroine I can get behind.

The novel moves between some of my favorite places, like Boston, the Massachusetts coast, and Rome. (Does Paris count? I changed planes there once… Yeah, totally counts.) Also, the investigation involves art theft, priceless artifacts, jewels and secret villas. Yes. At first, I thought the Shakespeare-quoting murderer was a bit much, but just go with it, readers, and you will be rewarded. It works. (Especially when “Juliet” rises from her tomb. Nuns are way more trustworthy than that shady friar.)

I received a copy of The Lost Concerto to read and review. As always, all opinions on my blog are my own, and ARCs have never stopped me fron snarking about a bad book.

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Shepherd

The other day, I had a new student called Shepherd. I always ask my kids how they chose their English names, for every mumbled explanation that it was assigned in primary school English class, there’s a great story about identity and personality. Shepherd said he got his name from his favorite videogame, Mass Effect, and when pressed, said this was his favorite character of all time.

I’ve thought for a while that it would be the height of game writer success to have someone cosplay one of my characters, but now I think choosing a character name for himself might be the best ever.

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Everybody Rise

everybody rise cover artEverybody Rise is a lifestyle-porn New York adventure with a likeable protagonist, a middle-class girl pretending to the world of deb balls and multimillion-dollar getaway cottages.

I love lifestyle and manners novels, with a blatant escapist love for the gorgeous, the exclusive and the expensive, as well as a more socialilogical fascinationg with how one expresses class markers and identifies what matchmaking martiarchs in British novels always call “like-minded people”. (See also: Julian Fellowes’ Snobs, Kevin Kwan’s China Rich Girlfriend, and Candace Bushnell’s One Fifth Avenue.) Everybody Rise has both, with long descriptions of a summer cabin, and then explanations of a guest’s duties: be amusing without stealing the spotlight, play the correct sports, sail capably in whichever position is vacant, and so forth.

A few years ago, I was a wedding dancing with somebody’s handsome cousin when he mentioned going to dancing school as young boy. Of course, I thought. These things are skills, and people learn the skills they expect to need. That’s why I can order a frappuccino in Mandarin and wash all my clothes in the sink. Wait. Anyway. Moving on.

Our heroine, Evelyn, has been to the correct prep school and college, but is slightly lacking in the other skills. Her new-money parents, a gaudy Southern lawyer and a social climbing mom, have done their best to purchase what can be purchased, but the correct ancestors the attitude that accompanies them aren’t for sale. Evelyn carefully memorizes the Emily Post manual and researches debutante balls, and when she has the chance to befriend the pedigreed queen bee, she slightly exaggerates her story.

Evelyn was mostly sympathetic, and the contrast between her father’s mill-town North Carolina roots and Evelyn’s socialite New York (New York is pretty much upper Manhattan, and the Hamptons, of course.) was perfect. So good. I wanted more scenes of her dad ordering the wrong thing in trendy restaurants, while Evelyn cringed.  But as the story progressed, I wanted her to tone it down a little. Pretending to be a deb, ok, but actually opening the debutante ball? Asking for trouble. Tens of thousands of dollars on dresses worn just once seemed ridiculous, but if you’re going to do it, at least sell them off on Craig’s List or Tradesy afterwards. She kept wanting more and more, until it was somewhat difficult to sympathize with her social climbing, underhanded ways, and reckless shopping. Of course, that can’t last, and there’s only so long that North Carolina New Money can pass herself off as something else.

Overall, another great manners and lifestyle novel, where the protagonist is pretty aware of being among the manners-novel elite.

Everybody Rise by Stephanie Clifford will be published by St. Martin’s Press on August 18, 2015. I received a copy of this novel to review, and, as always, all opinions on my blog are my own.

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Bing Kafei

I have an electric kettle in my room, so one of the first things I bought was a package of those Nescafe instant coffees. They’re nice, of course, but not even the most optimistic expat could mistake it for brewed, fresh coffee. Fortunately, there’s a KFC just under a mile from my room, which serves real, brewed coffee. That also means that when I walk there, I can convince myself that I just spent all the calories in my iced coffee!

bing kafei

Hey, did I tell you guys how much I love this iced coffee and ice cream drink from Chinese KFC? Oh, yeah, I did, 9 years ago:

I figured I was finally benefiting from a Chinese error, but it turns out that this ice cream coffee is not given to weird foreigners but actually on the menu! Amazing! I could go on about the joys of this KFC coffee but I’ll sum it up:

Times I visited KFC in my entire life before coming to China: 4 or 5

Times I visited KFC in China: 5 or 6

Times I visited KFC solely to drink the amazing ice cream coffee: 7

That number is a lot higher than 7 now.

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