Cool Noodles

Last night, Zorro, Dave and I went out to celebrate David’s 8 month anniversary with China. I took them to “my” noodle place, and I think Zorro was a little upset by our adventures last night because he made me order for us all while he pretended he couldn’t speak Chinese. He did tell me that the staff said how good my Chinese is, but either they are lying or he is.


This is Dave drinking a toast to his relationship with China.

I got us my beloved “cool noodles”, red plums and, of course, beer. We sat outside the noodle shop to eat, which always invites stares. It was even worse since Zorro was pretending not to speak Chinese. One foreigner attracts enoug hattention, but two foreigners with a Chinese person who can’t speak Chinese? We should have sold tickets!

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The other side of lao wai

Last night, Zorro, David and I went to dinner at the Korean pizza place, and we saw other foreigners! It’s always really exciting to meet foreigners in Yantai, especially outside of Jackie’s or Cape Of Storms. I can go days or weeks without seeing a foreigner who doesn’t work with me. David (who’s now blogging at Dave Vs. China) greeted them with “HELLO, LAO WAI!”. They nodded and smiled at this, while I laughed hysterically, like the socially warped nerd that I am.

We sat at our table, ordered, and we were going to draw lots for who had to approach the other foreigners, but since they were two fairly handsome guys around my age, it wasn’t hard to convince me to go talk to them. They’ve here for work, at a large German-owned Yantai company. They’ve been here for a week, and I really love when people tell me they’ve been in China for a shorter time that I have — it makes me feel like Marco Polo or Columbus or at the very least, one of the TalkTalkChina guys. I started to introduce myself, and I pointed over to David and Zorro.

“Yeah, we have a little Chinaman who goes around with us too, but he’s home right now.” one of them said.

“Um, that’s not out translator, that’s our friend Zorro.” I said, “He’s American. He works with us. I have to go now.”

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One Month Until Stick Visits!

To be totally honest, I’m a lot more worried about Stick’s arrival than I am about his absence. I haven’t seen the boy in 5 months — it’ll be 6 by the time he arrives — and a lot can happen in 6 months. I mean, I can get through entire relationships in that time!

I’m so excited about Stick coming to see me! I really want him to like China in general and Yantai in particular. I want him to like the Hemingway-as-a-foreign-correspondant part of expat life, and not get too caught up in the Margaret-Mead-in-Samoa part of Chinese life. I hope he’ll like what the guys here call the Wild West aspect, but I’m afraid that he’ll get distracted by the public spitting and urination, by the sweaty bodies crammed into a bus, by the filth, the noise and the constant touching of the foreigners.

Also, a lot of my adjustment to China has involved me becoming less squeamish about things like personal space, pollution, bodily functions and exactly what constitutes food. I think all of these adjustments are making my life easier, but what if it turns out that Stick is partial to girls with table manners?

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Bing Kafei

When I was younger, I could tell when my mom had a deadline because she’d turn on the Greatful Dead and drink a latte. (Wow, did that just sum up my mom, or what?) My mom loves lattes but my hippie parents couldn’t quite accept Starbucks, so we ended up with a cappiccino machine worthy of an Italian bakery.

And that became the beginning of my love affair with coffee. I don’t like black coffee, and my ex-boyfriend liked to remind me that good coffee is wasted on me. I really like 7-11 coffee, Cumbie’s coffee and Dunkin’ Donuts coffee. I especially like gas station coffee when you can add vanilla or hazelnut or chocolate cream or tiny hard marshmallows. Usually Stick’s in line to pay for his black coffee while I do my best to create a caffienated sundae.

I went into the KFC about 2 weeks ago because I thought a “Western” place might have iced coffee, and I asked, in my horrible Chinese, for iced coffee. What I got what a delicious glass of iced coffee with vanilla ice cream on top. It was SO good I figured it had to be a mistake. When you want to order a cold beer in China, you ask for “ice beer” so what I actually said is “you have ice coffee yes?” (Yes, I can ask for cold beer in Chinese. I TOLD you I only know essentials.)

I figured I was finally benefitting from a Chinese error, but it turns out that this ice cream coffee is not given to weird foreigners but actually on the menu! Amazing! I could go on about the joys of this KFC coffee but I’ll sum it up:

Times I visited KFC in my entire life before coming to China: 4 or 5
Times I visited KFC in China: 5 or 6
Times I visited KFC solely to drink the amazing ice cream coffee: 7

Zorro recently pointed out that my addiction to iced coffee leaves me without grounds to mock his Sprite addiction (Thanks to Zorro, I can also ask for a cold Sprite in Chinese.) or David’s Coke addiction.

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The Anti-China

My new boss, “Will,” is the anti-China. I don’t mean his dislikes our host country, but he takes responsibility in a land where no one knows anything about that and no one knows when someone who does know will be in the office, which puts him at odds with the rest of the PRC. It’s always rare and always good to have an effective boss, but even more so when you live in Dante’s DMV, full of employees who have simoultaneously never heard of a license and just sold the last license.

Will’s also extremely well-informed about the school, which is probably because he has this uncanny ability to ask about how classes are going in a chatty way that’s totally-not-checking-up way. Plus we all plan lessons in a small office so we ALL know exactly what’s going on in each other’s lives. And Will

— I have to interrupt my discussions about how freakishly-well informed Will is because he just came in (I’m at the KFC drinking the ambrosial ice cream coffee to which I am addicted), said hi, and asked if I were writing another movie review.

“Huh? Writing a what?” was my chracteristically witty response. Will showed up before I could tell you he’s also pretty good-looking, but you already know my inability to form sentences when handsome guys are around. I fully expect to greet Stick at the airport with a string of vowel sounds and some pointing.

“What was it, Amityville Horror?” he asked.

I accused him of google-stalking, but I was secretly glad that he’s bothered to check up on me. That puts this school lightyears ahead of the usual system that requires English teachers to be both white and breathing.

Like I said, he’s the anti-China.

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L’chaim

After listening to Jason Zorro make Mandarin tones properly and effortlessly, David decided to take him down a peg and teach him to say “L’chaim”. After a few tries, it was still almost as bad as my Chinese.

Ok, nothing’s really that bad.

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My Parents

I’ve already talked my sister into visting me in China in August. (This is a picture of her with her Chinese music ensemble at Wesleyan… guess which one is my sister!) Now I’m trying to convince my mom and my dad to come to China, too. I really hope they can come — it’s going to be awesome to see them and I can’t wait to show them around.

This morning, my mom said that they could use my dad’s Marriott points to stay in Beijing.

“Normally I wouldn’t want to stay in a Marriott in a foreign country,” my mom said. My mom backpacked in Europe when she was about my age and she doesn’t want to miss local color by staying in an American chain hotel when she goes abroad. But when she said it, I started to giggle. Actually, I started to laugh hysterically.

“No, Mom, you really do want to stay in the Marriott. Trust me, you will be experiencing authentic China on the packed buses and trains. You’ll see that all the time you spend teaching me manners was a complete waste of time when I shout at taxi drivers not to rip us off. You will have the real Chinese experience when we go to restaurants and find that half the menu is mei you, or when you forget to pack something and find that it’s just not available in Yantai. You’ll see real China when people spit on the street or when you actually push vendors away from you.” I stopped again for giggling.

Don’t you remember our Weifeng hotel saga? Believe me, you will want a nice Western-style hotel when no one is shouting lao wei! or the thirty-second delayed “Hullor”, and no one is crazily trying to anticipate what you want. I think it’s safe to assume that you’ll want a bathroom is attached to the bedroom, and it has a bathtub, and the tub’s been cleaned in the last ten years.

So yes, Mom and Dad, I think you should stay at the Marriott. I think it’ll make the difference between enjoying the Wild West of developing China or counting the hours until you get home. Besides, it’s very Chinese to use your connections to get something for free!

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You People

The other day I was crossing the street and I said “You people invented gunpowder and silk! Surely mastering a turn signal is nothing to that!”

Usually shouting witticisms at my non-English speaking surroundings makes me feel better, but today I was sad because I’m trying not have the “you people” attitude. It’s really hard to avoid, though. I feel like my students are complex individuals but as for the rest of China, sometimes I feel like I’m in some dystopian sci-fi novel where everyone wears the same clothes, does the same things, says the same things and even thinks the same thoughts. There’s a level of predictability and sameness in Chinese behavior that I simply cannot describe properly for Americans.

China is like a pre-teen nightmare, full of giggling packs of girls who mimic everything I do, giggle, and then say “ting bu dong” (hears but can’t understand) and giggle some more. Then I say this:

Actually, I DO understand you. Hello.
No, I’m not German. I’m American.
No, I’m not a student, I’m an English teacher.
Yes, I do look quite young, but honestly, I’m 26 by your calendar.
Yes, really.
Why, thank you for saying my Chinese is very good, but honestly I’m only good at this one conversation because ONE-POINT-FOUR BILLION people ask me the SAME THINGS!

But as I’m writing this, my boss, Will, is singing “one little, two little, three little Meggies, four little, five little, six little Meggies…”. I mean, it’s not exactly Stick and “Fat Bottomed Megs” but it’s still making China feel more like home.

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Jia Gei Wo Ba?

Ryan in Dalian, also known as The Humanaught, is engaged!

Congratulations, Ryan and Maggie!

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Six Years Later…

I’ve been corresponding with my old roommate, Ruth. She’s working in Washington, DC now, and she dropped words like “senator” and “security clearance” into her letters. She said something along the lines of “six years ago, if someone told us we’d end up where we are today, we wouldn’t have believed them,” It’s true. Not only would we not have believed it, but it seems like we might have actively fought getting here.

Six years ago, I had decided that college sucked and I could make way more money pouring coffee for truckers at a local diner. College was a waste of my time! Sure, I was getting history books from the library, and reading them on my breaks, but I had NO NEED of higher education. I mean, I was making almost minimum wage! Screw homework!

We had a third roommate, who spent most of her time in her room rearranging her My Little Pony collection. (Not hyperbole) On a rare occasion when she left her room, she commented that Ruth was not scraping the bottom of the barrel in terms of boyfriends but actually lifting up the barrel to see what was underneath. It’s a surprisingly accurate metaphor, and I wish I could take credit for it. She was working a string of underpaid jobs, and if there was a boy with drug problems or deep-seated emotional issues at any of them, she’d find him!

Now, I’m so impressed when I hear her talk about her life in DC, and I try to imagine the Ruth I remember at political dinners or metworking at upscale parties. It suits her so much better, and this is the life she always should have had.

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