You People

The other day I was crossing the street and I said “You people invented gunpowder and silk! Surely mastering a turn signal is nothing to that!”

Usually shouting witticisms at my non-English speaking surroundings makes me feel better, but today I was sad because I’m trying not have the “you people” attitude. It’s really hard to avoid, though. I feel like my students are complex individuals but as for the rest of China, sometimes I feel like I’m in some dystopian sci-fi novel where everyone wears the same clothes, does the same things, says the same things and even thinks the same thoughts. There’s a level of predictability and sameness in Chinese behavior that I simply cannot describe properly for Americans.

China is like a pre-teen nightmare, full of giggling packs of girls who mimic everything I do, giggle, and then say “ting bu dong” (hears but can’t understand) and giggle some more. Then I say this:

Actually, I DO understand you. Hello.
No, I’m not German. I’m American.
No, I’m not a student, I’m an English teacher.
Yes, I do look quite young, but honestly, I’m 26 by your calendar.
Yes, really.
Why, thank you for saying my Chinese is very good, but honestly I’m only good at this one conversation because ONE-POINT-FOUR BILLION people ask me the SAME THINGS!

But as I’m writing this, my boss, Will, is singing “one little, two little, three little Meggies, four little, five little, six little Meggies…”. I mean, it’s not exactly Stick and “Fat Bottomed Megs” but it’s still making China feel more like home.

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Jia Gei Wo Ba?

Ryan in Dalian, also known as The Humanaught, is engaged!

Congratulations, Ryan and Maggie!

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Six Years Later…

I’ve been corresponding with my old roommate, Ruth. She’s working in Washington, DC now, and she dropped words like “senator” and “security clearance” into her letters. She said something along the lines of “six years ago, if someone told us we’d end up where we are today, we wouldn’t have believed them,” It’s true. Not only would we not have believed it, but it seems like we might have actively fought getting here.

Six years ago, I had decided that college sucked and I could make way more money pouring coffee for truckers at a local diner. College was a waste of my time! Sure, I was getting history books from the library, and reading them on my breaks, but I had NO NEED of higher education. I mean, I was making almost minimum wage! Screw homework!

We had a third roommate, who spent most of her time in her room rearranging her My Little Pony collection. (Not hyperbole) On a rare occasion when she left her room, she commented that Ruth was not scraping the bottom of the barrel in terms of boyfriends but actually lifting up the barrel to see what was underneath. It’s a surprisingly accurate metaphor, and I wish I could take credit for it. She was working a string of underpaid jobs, and if there was a boy with drug problems or deep-seated emotional issues at any of them, she’d find him!

Now, I’m so impressed when I hear her talk about her life in DC, and I try to imagine the Ruth I remember at political dinners or metworking at upscale parties. It suits her so much better, and this is the life she always should have had.

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Why Spelling Matters

Last night, Zorro (formerly known as Jason), David and I went to the Jazz Island Cafe. Like more of the “English” places around Yantai, Jazz Ialand has a few spelling errors in their signage. In some places, Jazz is spelled with a double-X, coffee and cafe are used interchangably, and “island” has a silent Q. (Hey Zorro: That was another example of my masterful use of hyperbole)

It was the menu, though, that really got our attention. We didn’t actually order the crap salad, but with all our pointing, giggling and phototaking, we somehow confused the waitress into bringing it for Zorro anyway.


“I didn’t order this crap!”

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Travel In China

Tonight I had my adult students. Now, I don’t really like teaching adults because they have all the idiosyncrasies of my middle school students (refusal to speak above a whisper, inability to separate “L” and “R” but an insistence that “z” is pronounced “Zed”, total lack of subject-verb agreement) but they can’t be bought off with a little Harry Potter trivia. Also they don’t like to play games and they don’t tell me they want to grow up to be like me.

Last time, I asked my students to write a paragraph about their worst travel experience. First we needed to go over what a paragraph was, and then they all insisted they had no bad travel experiences. “Who remembers bad times?” one woman asked. I begged them to please try to remember a travel horror story.

Tonight, I asked them to read their homework. Will had warned me that this would be a slow, painful lesson because most Chinese don’t really travel (except for New Years and May Day when the entire country goes to see their moms). I planned to tell about getting stuck in Beijing with Jeff and Fresca, to get the travel-disaster ball rolling, but my students topped me. One student told me a story about staying in a bug-infested hotel. Another said she snuck onto a train and hid from the police. A third bribed her way onto a sold-out sleeping car.

We read and listened to a story about a bad vacation. It was bad in the British or American sense of bad, which means the plane was delayed 10 hours and our heroes had to sleep in the airport. At the end of class, I asked the students to write a complaint letter to an airline, hotel or travel agent about this bad vacation, explaining what went wrong and asking for a refund.

The faster students explained it to the slower ones and then one man said “But Meg, we don’t do this in China.”

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Helen of Yantai

I tutor a little girl called Helen, and by “tutor” I mean we play Barbies and lots of clapping games. She is bright, sweet, funny and the picture to the left shows her dressed up for her school concert and asking me if she’s prettier than “my” Helen of Troy.

Sometimes when Helen says something particularly insightful or funny I wonder if maybe I should get over my intense dislike of all babies so I could have a daughter like her. Fortunately, I see other children so I get over that pretty quickly.

Her mom walks a perfect balance of adoring her brilliant daughter and keeping her unspoiled. Seriously. If I ever have kids, I want to be like Helen’s mom. In addition to playing clay chefs English tutoring, Helen’s mom wants me to teach Helen about American manners, so when I eat with them, she tries to have a Western-style table.

They laughed at me when I told them then Westerners don’t lift their soup bowls to drink the broth, and that we try very hard not to slurp. And although the one-elbow-on-the-table method of eating does facilitate chopstick use, my Granny would faint if she saw me doing it. Helen’s mom is a good cook and very patient as I ask her the names of the dishes, over and over.

“Helen!” her mom said yesterday at lunch, “Use the public spoon, don’t use your own chopsticks! That’s not Teacher Meg’s custom!”

I tried to explain that I don’t have a problem with using our own utensils to take a piece of fish from the common bowl. Yes, it sounds a bit unsanitary, but this is not as unclean as it sounds because your chopsticks only touch the food that you’re about to put into your own bowl. Besides, if you can’t take a little germ-swapping between tablemates, you really shouldn’t look at a Chinese bathroom. I told Helen that her method of serving herself was fine, but spitting the bones out onto the tablecloth would be a problem.

They stared at me as though I’d said something ridiculous. “Then how do you eat fish in America?” Helen asked.

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One-Way Ticket

We moved David into his new place the other night (my school is playing Musical Apartments right now — I think the prize is getting an apartment with a bathtub) and we noticed this bar on the way over. That totally shaped our plans for the evening!

Inside, the decor is kind of World Cup-meets-Mystic Seaport, with the unbiquitous Christmas theme. I’m not sure if so many places leave their Christmas decorations up year-round to show that they’re Western, the way you might hang up Chinese New Year banners as a decoration at a Chinese-themed shop or restaurant. Then again, the Chinese leave their own New Year’s banners up for months, until they fade and tear and look more like litter than good-luck wishes, so maybe they just don’t take down holiday decorations. (Don’t worry, Yantai, when my mom comes to visit, she’ll explain in no uncertain terms that it’s past time to take down the Christmas lights. In fact, she’ll probably get my dad to do it!)

This is Zorro Jason playing darts… I took this photo slightly before I threw a dart and hit the wall. Which sounds bad, until Jason hit the proprietor with one.

After a few drinks, some foozball and 3-handed Hearts, we decided that we’d found our new air-conditioned hangout. We called Will about halfway through this investigative process, and said we found a cool bar in Kaifaqu and he said “Oh, is it the One-Way?”

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Meg Vs. Mandarin

Stick’s mom is famous for forcing me to watch Nascar and driving my hyperactive self to the MTELs. The other day, she e-mailed me to tell me she’d learned some Mandarin words, and she gave the examples wo xiang-nian ni (I miss you), xiang jiao (banana) and shu cai (vegetable). This is a perfect example of why Mandarin drives me insane.

Xiang jiao (??) means “banana”, but xiang jiao (??) means “I want a foot” and xiang jiao(??) means “proudly galloping four-legged dragon.”

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Summer in China

Today I was walking through the park in Kaifaqu in a haze of sunshine, sea air and June roses. I saw a little girl, around 5 or 6, in a white princess dress walking through the summer flowers with her mother. They were talking to each other, and to my surprise and delight, I found that I could recognize a few words in their conversation. Water for one. And there.

But it wasn’t until the little girl pulled up her dress and squatted that I realized what the mother was saying.

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A Classical Education At Work

After a lesson on present progressive and some Slytherin vs. Griffindor verb charades, I dismissed my teenagers and came back to the teachers’ office.

“Meg, did they have wheelbarrows in ancient Rome?” Jason asked.

“I suppose so, they had to get those olives to market somehow. Why do you ask?”

“I’m going to give my kids this worksheet where you’re supposed to spot errors in this cartoon of Rome. So far, I caught the preatorian with the rifle, the bike parked by the column and the girl with sunglasses.”

I took a look at Jason’s photocopies. “There’s a guy reading a newspaper, and this girl’s talking on her cellphone, and the temple of Saturn shouldn’t have Doric columns.”

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