What I Did On My May Vacation

Fresca came to class with me today. I was at the middle school (that paragon of all educational virtues that is Number Three) and I was asking everyone what they could do over May Holiday in order to talk about future tense and present tense. The kids came up with the usual, like play games, do homework, watch TV, visit family, etc. One girl raised her hand and said “I will swing!”

I write down “SWIM”, because a lot of my kids get M and N confused.

“No,” she tells me. “S-W-I-N-G!” I make a face trying not to laugh, which the poor student interprets as disapproval.

“Teacher, will you swing over May Holiday?” she asks me, looking nervous. I try not to make eye contact with Fresca, and praise my student for raising her hand.

I suppose we could swing over our May holiday, but we should probably ask Jeff and Stick first.

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Airport Goodbyes

After our awesome Beijing adventures, we sent Jeff home. Did you catch that? I said we, because Fresca has extended her trip for another two weeks as she tries to decide whether and when to teach here!

Jeff and I are the farthest points in Meg, Stick, Fresca, Jeff constellation, and I really didn’t know him before the trip. Everyday I found out something new about Jeff’s life and his veiws. It was kind of like meeting a new friend, only he’s the kind of new friend who comes prescreened by Stick and Fresca, and brings me tampons in a semi-developed nation.

Fresca and Jeff are good travelers. They accepted the staring and photo-taking with good grace, they visited my classes and talked basketball with my boys, ate mystery dishes without too many questions. They dealt with the 17-hour train ride and the cramped buses and total lack of any kind of reservation or advance planning in China! The only sucky thing about traveling with them is that I’m constantly missing the simple pleasure of using the first person plural. It’s been a long time since I could say “We were talking last night, and…” or “We thought that movie was a little long-winded.” Every day that I’m here is exciting and interesting, and I don’t mean to sound like I’m unhappy, but I really miss being part of a couple, specifically the cartography-challenged half of No Sense Of Direction Girl and Never Plans Ahead Boy.

We’re all in the airport at the end of Jeff’s trip, and I spot a certain self-important assistant headmistress from one of the middle schools where I teach… quick sidenote, I only know about a hundred people in a country of 1.4 billion. How can I possibly run into people I don’t want to see? It’s just not statistically possible!!! I try to dodge so that Jeff and Fresca don’t have their goodbyes interrupted by a repetitive lecture on the failures of the American educational system when compared to the hallmark of perfection that is Number 3 middle school.

I wander off to get us some drinks. Jeff, you see, likes pineapple, grapefruit and orange juice, in that order. And Fresca and I become a lot more sociable and friendly and um, human after what passes for coffee here. At the airport shop, I order in, well, if not flawless Chinese, at least understandable Chinese. I even asked for powdered milk and sugar and a wrist bag for Jeff’s bottle of orange juice.

I walked back to them, holding the two hot and lidless coffees and watching my two friends prepare to be split across the globe.

The trick is, if you don’t look down, you won’t spill.

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Weifang Photos

This isn’t the rollarcoaster on which we almost died.


These are just some of the people who came over to watch us eat.

This is Fresca, moments after realizing that she’s thirty by the Chinese calendar.

These are some people who gathered to watch me write in Chinese. I know I could have drawn just as big a crowd by breathing or walking, but I wanted that Margerat Mead-in-Samoa feeling.

Not only were these girls sent over to sit on our laps for the photo, they also took candy from strangers.

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Weifang Math

So we’re trying to check into a hotel in Weifang. It takes all 3 of us to speak Chinese. I can understand the most, then I tell Jeff and Fresca the gist of what’s just been said. Jeff says “Oh, reservation? That’s on page 151 of the little blue phrasebook,” We look it up and then Fresca pronounces it because she can make the tones the best.

The room costs 400?. I say ok. Jeff tries to pay the clerk 400?. She says, 600?. I say, what? She says 400? today, and something something something 200?tomorrow.

I ask her how much for 1 night. She say 400?. I say ok, and try again to pay 400?. She says, 600?. I ask how much for 1 night, she says 400?.

We go a couple rounds of this when some new guests walk into the lobby. After taking a few pictures of us, the new guests ask the clerk what’s going on. She tells them. They laugh. They take another picture.

The clerk writes down what she’s saying. In Chinese. Just as a sidenote, if I could read and write Chinese, wouldn’t I have done that already? Another sidenote, even the characters I can read are only legible in print, not in the 10,000 flavors of Chinese cursive, and she’s definately not using Times New Mandarin. It’s more like one of the goofy fonts you use to make your reports seem longer. I remind myself that in this culture, my handwriting is idealized and beautiful, and try to think of a new game plan.

One of the guests decides to be helpful. “Fou hunded money!” he shouts.

*Flash!* Another hotal guest takes our photo on his way out.

I use the pencil to write down 400 and 600 and say it in Chinese. The clerk agrees with me, which means there’s no Weifang dialect in which sz and liu are homophones. She writes down 600-400 = 200. I’m pleased that we’re still in a universe where simple math works, but it doesn’t help me get a room.

“Money! Hunded! Fou!” shouts the helpful guest.

I think of the hours spent playing text-based games and I ask the clerk every variation of “What is the price for one night?”, “Is it 400? for one night?” and “How much for one night?” Each time she says “400?, I try to hand her 400?, and she says “No, 600.”

The helpful guest has now used Fou! Hunded! and Money! in every possible order, but he seems to derive great pleasure from communicating with the lao wei so he keeps going.

One of his friends stops taking pictures of us to do a little pantomime and I shout:

“ROOM DEPOSIT!”

We pay for the room, then I leave Fresca and Jeff comatose on the beds and check out a bar down the street. While I’m there, with the good phrasebook in my pocket, the toilet overflows.

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Insert Bird Flu Joke Here

My sister Beth, age 6: Why did the chicken cross the road?

Me: I don’t know.

Beth: To get the Chinese newspaper!

Me: *Blank stare*

Beth: Do you get it?

Me: No.

Beth: Me neither, I get the New York Times. HAHAHA!

We saw this at a park in Weifang yesterday. It was just after I said “Hey everybody, let’s ride this rollarcoaster right now!”…

Me, age 24: Hey, Fresca, Jeff, look! That chicken’s actually going to get the Chinese newspaper! *laughs hysterically until unable to breathe*

Fresca: Remember when Meg had social skills?

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Everybody Weifang Tonight!*

We took a ritzy bus to the Weifang Kite festival, and then went by taxi to the park in Weifang where the kites would be flown. I got off the bus a few moments before Fresca and Jeff and was instantly surrounded by aggressive cab drivers. First they said “taxi” in Chinese (in case I thought they were in some kind of matching-car cult), then they tried the Chinese words for drive, car, transport, etc., interspersed with “taxi” in English. They were all making steering-wheel motions and saying vroom vroom by the time Fresca and Jeff pushed their way off the bus. I wish my friends had taken just a little bit longer to gather their things and get off – I really want to know if they would have done some automobile related performance art.


We were too early for the kite show so we went to the adjoining “relaxation park. The residents of Weifang relax by visiting pagodas, bamboo bridges, waterfalls, streams, gardens and by riding dodgy rollarcoasters. The first ride (of course we rode them) was like taking a go-cart though someone’s basement. Flourescent demons popped down from the concrete ceiling and Chinese tourists took our picture.

The second ride was a mini open-car monorail. It was also where I learned the Chinese word for “seatbelt.” The ride attendant was not actually saying “fasten your seatbelts” as I’d thought but “Don’t touch that seatbelt, it’s broken and covered in tar”. I don’t know the Mandarin words for “hang on for your life,” but I’m pretty sure she said those too.

After our near-death experience, we went to the zoo. They had all kind of exotic animals like peacocks and camels and, um, turkeys.

This is me at a zoo: That bird is pretty.
This is Jeff at a zoo: That’s a two-year-old New Zealand angora hen.
This is me at a zoo with Jeff: Do you actually know everything about everything!?!?!?

*Have you noticed that all my recent posts, like The Pride of Yantai, Shandong Province, are based on things Stick does that (used to) piss me off? I really miss that boy.

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Across The Pond

Stephanie: I wanted to cross this pretty little pond. But I can’t. Dam.

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My friends are here! / Step 2 of 10,000

This morning as I was drinking coffee and watching Travel In Chinese on CCTV9, a sleepy Jeff came into the living room.
“I’m up, I’m up.” He said. “You don’t have to set off fireworks to wake me.”
I turned away from Mark Roswell long enough to say something clever and witty like “Huh?”
“The fireworks in the courtyard. Just now. Didn’t you hear them?”
“No,” I said. “I really didn’t.”

9,998 to go.

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This is Jeff and me having a calm, rational discussion about the definitive pronounciation of xie xie.

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My friends are coming! / Step 1 of 10,000

In anticipation of Fresca and Jeff’s visit, my students gave me KFC and McDonald’s coupons. (They didn’t want me to pay a ludicrous $2 for a “western” meal!) I thanked them, but I giggled because I can’t think of 2 people in my life less likely to eat in a KFC. Protest outside with pictures of mutated birds, ok, I can see that, but not actually eat fast food. “Foreigners don’t lke Chinese food, so you can take your friends to KFC everyday!” my student told me, proud of his multi-cultural knowledge.
I wondered, angrily, why I was offered (in China, this is all but force-feeding) second helpings of blood tofu and sea cucumber. I asked why I was not classed with the foreigners who might be so uncultured as to prefer french fries to chicken hearts. My students exchanged a look of surprise that made a verbal answer totally unneccessary.
Step 1 of my Chinese assimilation is complete!
9,999 left.

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