Pandora’s Box

Today when I was coming in to work, the postman stopped me in the hallway and shoved a box at me. (It had to be mine because it was addressed in English!) I just stood there for a moment, looking at the return address label for a while, thinking it had to be some kind of collossal, intercontinental mistake.

I opened it in the office, and it was a box of books! Not just any books, although any English texts would have been amazing, but a dozen children’s classics. Including some of my personal favorites, like The Lost World and Around The World in Eighty Days. Sturdy hardcover editions, unabridged but with annotations for unusual phrases, the best editions for a school library.

“Who’s that from?” the two office secretaries asked me as I opened the box.

“Um, my ex-boyfriend,” I said.

“Does your boyfriend know that your ex-boyfriend sends you long letters and books?”

I decide not to get into an explanation of the difference between know and worry about, and I say “No, the letters are from my friend Eric. This is from someone else.”

“Is it the one who send you the poems that made you cry?”

“No, that’s Marcus.”

There’s a brief conversation which I’m sure involved the Chinese for “what a slut” and “crazy American girl”.

“It’s from someone else. I may not have mentioned him… we don’t really get along very well.”

“The ex-boyfriend you’re not friends with sent you this box?”

“Yes.”

They confer again in Chinese before saying “I don’t understand Americans.”

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Things that should be simple, but aren’t.

Part 1 of 10,000

What’s the first thing you learn in a new language? That’s right, numbers. Beijing-bound flights usually have at least one Westerner practicing yi, er, san, si, and so forth. We usually also working on the accompanying handsigns, which, as Copperpoint has said, go 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, Dude!, Kermit, gun, redrum, Fight the man!

Anyway, we soon learn that a basic concept like “two” isn’t a basic concept. 2 can either be “liang” or “er”, actually. When you want 2 dumplings you use “liang ge” but you receive 2 RMB change as “er kwai”. “Liang” for 2 rooms, or staying 2 nights, but “er” for second floor or room #2. “One country, two systems”, the Chinese euphemism for the Mainland-Taiwan situation is called “y? guó li?ng zhì”.

I’m utterly baffled by 2. How am I going to master “wife of my father’s older-but-not-oldest brother”?

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Back In Ironforge

I got World of Warcraft loaded on one of the computers in the lab downstairs from my office and I logged on for a couple hours of bandit-slaying and emote flirting with Stick. I’ve already said how much I love WoW, and it was so nice to be back on a MMORPG! And, of course, to play with Stick. We made it through a bunch of quests in the dwarven/gnome lands, and because it had been a while since I played WoW or played in that area, I got to enjoy the graphics and the dialogue all over again.

The crowded servers were really choppy, and even on a less populated one, the cities were still laggy. (Yeah, I know. It takes weeks for a letter to make it to China and I’m complaining because my dwarf froze when she tried to loot. This is the disturbing life of a computer geek.)

The only thing I’d change about WoW is creating an adults-only server. No, not that kind of AO, I just mean a new realm where the over-eighteen crowd can quest without constant chatspam about the speaker’s super-cool 60th level on another server. I mean, I don’t need kids around when I’m playing pretend heroes!

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Dragon Boat Day

(Written on 6/1 but Dragon Boat Day is 5/31 so I’m backdating this)

Once there was a Chinese poet called Qu Yuan (??). Depending on who you ask, Qu Yuan either jumped or fell into a river and drowned, and the Chinese celebrate today as the anniversary of his death. (Maybe he wasn’t a very good poet?) Today is also Dragon Boat Day, a holiday involves which involves racing dragon boats and pushing poets off the boats. Ok, I may have made that part up. I think the races are actually to commemorate Qu Yuan.

I can’t seem to find two people who tell the story the same way, but everyone agrees this is a very important day. I’m actually pretty sad that my headmistress hasn’t included the foreigner teachers in celebrating Chinese holidays, but I’m not sure if that would be intruding. I think I’m biased because Stivison family holidays usually involve at least one friend from far away, like a British exchange student, the entire international student population of Wesleyan University…

Like all Chinese holidays, this one involves eating a lot. Today’s food is zong zi, which is a rice ball wrapped in a leaf. The rice can be filled with red bean, pork, sugar, fruit, fish or anything else you can think up. Instead of eating them, you can also thrown them into a river for the drowned poet.

Also, you’re supposed try to stand an egg on it’s end at exactly noon. If you can do this, you will have a very good year. And you should put a special kind of herb on your front door to protect your home from bad spirits. (I didn’t try either one, didn’t I already ruin my chanced by crying on New Year’s Day? And don’t I already have a good year from fireworks on Lantern Festival?)

Lily and her husband Bag invited me to have dinner with them, so we gorged ourselves at the nighttime food court as an appetizer for our zong zi. I love the night market, you can get such awesome food there! In fact, I think I’m starting to really love cheap Chinese food, it’s only the classy stuff that’s foul. Anything considered a delicacy is totally wasted on me. I had a really good time with Lily and Bag, eating good food, getting the elusive cold beer and just enjoying a summer evening by the beach.

This morning when I left the house, I saw that my neighbors had tucked some leaves into my door to protect me from bad spirits.

Related: Dragon Boat Day two years later in Beijing

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Asking for it

Yesterday, I got the worst haircut ever. Really. I’ve cut my hair myself and it came out better than this. I dyed my hair purple and no stage, as it faded back to brown, was as bad as this. I

I asked for a trim and I was really proud of my Chinese when I explained that I wanted layers but the shortest layer must be long enough enough to reach a ponytail. Ok, so I had to do a lot of gesturing for this, with excessive use of ji ge and ni ge. But the hairdresser understood, and she did it!

And then at the end, faster than lightning, she reached over and chopped off my bangs. I don’t want bangs, I didn’t ask for bangs, and even if I wanted bangs, I wouldn’t want goofy feathered bangs. Yantai women love feathered bangs, supershort in front and then little wispy things on the sides.

Meg: I didn’t ask for this!

Hairdresser: Of course not, you don’t have to ask!

So now I look like I got gum stuck in my hair and had to cut it out. Actually, I’ll be wearing a headscarf until it grows back.

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China Blogs

John at Sinosplice brilliantly explains one of the fundamental differences between Chinese and lao wei, and gets himself punched. John first won my love with reasons why life in China is like an RPG.

TalkTalkChina, the home of bitter ex-pats (who secretly love China), is talking about the lao wei funk. The lao wei funk is when you don’t want to go home, but you’ve had one too many near-death experiences involving a pedicab, one too many rounds of bargaining down from the stupid-foreigner prices, one too many “HELLO! YOU BUY! HELLO!” There’s even a picture. (edit: TalkTalkChina is gone now.)

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Chinese Harry Potter Again

Living in China is making me more and more sympathetic to Harry Potter. He’s just trying to live a normal life and everyone at Hogwarts keeps pointing and shouting “The Choosen One!” or “The Boy Who Lived!”

Except Cho Chang, she shouts “Lao wei!” instead.

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Regarding Franz Ferdinand:

Would someone please tell me if “Austro-Hungarian Empire”, “Bosnian assassins”, and “the beginning of World War One” are also bands before my students get any more impromptu history lessons?

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Our Foreigner

So the other day I was at the little streetmarket in the alley near my apartment, and I saw crazy little melons I couldn’t recognize. I asked the seller what they are, but my language skills are at a weird place where I can ask “what is this?” but I can’t really understand the answer. I did pick up “very good” and “not cook” so I figured I’d buy one and see how it tasted. The man told meit would cost 18 kwai for one. That’s $2.16 for those who don’t do the conversion instantly. And for those who do, can you give me a quick mental formula for the kilo-to-pounds conversion?

It goes without saying that whenever I’m outside there is a small crowd following me around to discuss my clothes and purchases. Before I could tell the vendor that $2 for a melon is way too high, a women from the lao wei-following crowd jumped in with a paragraph of rapid Chinese. I couldn’t make out much of what she said, because she spoke quickly and with a local accent. And because my Chinese is awful. I did catch “bu” (don’t, not, isn’t, un, no) and “wo men de wai guo ren” (our other-country person), and then the vendor turned to me and offered me a melon for 2 kwai!

I think she was saying “Don’t cheat our foreigner!” but she could just as easily have said “Don’t bother, our foreigner never has any money.”

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Long-Distance Call

Last night I realized that pictures of my kids are crowding out my pictures from home. It seemed symbolic and sad that class photos and favorite students are starting to cover my pictures of Stick. Actually, most of my bad-China moments happen when I realize that everyone I love is asleep right now.

I called Stick today as I was waiting to meet my student. “I only have a moment before Helen of Yantai arrives,” I told him. “I just had to tell you that I love you and want to marry you and play MORPGs with you forever. Ok?”

“Is someone honking at you?” Stick asked, probably imagining that my declaration of eternal love was coming from a Chinese intersection.

“Oh yeah. I’m outside my office. It’s just a taxi. Ok, three taxis. And four other cars. And here’s a bus.” I explain this Yantai phenomenon to him and he laughs.

“I’m talking to Meg,” he calls over to his roommate, “And all the cars are honking at her because she’s white!”

“Not because I’m white, specifically. Because I’m not Chinese. Listen, they’re shouting lao wei out the window, too. Can you hear it?”

“They’re actually shouting at you? Right now?” Stick asks, in that happy stage of American disbelief.

“Now and every other time I leave the house.”

“That’s so cool!”

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